San Francisco is considered one of the greatest restaurant towns in the World. It seems that a new trendy restaurant pops up on almost a daily basis. Thankfully, some of our classic dining establishments like House of Prime Rib, Swan’s Oyster Depot, Tadich Grill and a handful of others survive and thrive. And others get rescued by “angel investors”- like Joe’s of Westlake (fingers crossed), Tosca Cafe, The Big 4, The Old Clam House and Schroeder’s. But I sadly salute the passing of some of my all-time personal favorites.
Capp’s Corner
(formerly 1600 Powell at Green St., North Beach)
This Family-Style Italian dinner house was a go-to for good food at a good price, and always great company. So many memories at Capp’s with family and friends. Dinner always served with a tureen of really tasty Minestrone (“Pass that bowl down here, please!”), followed by a tasty kidney-bean laden house-dressed salad. The long time owners, the Ginellas, were recently booted, another victim of San Francisco’s latest landord eviction frenzy (shameful). Capp’s Corner is also notable (to me) for being the place I first met the late great Seamus Coyle, in his capacity as the greeter. No one could greet you like that grizzled Irishman! I miss Capp’s….and Seamus.
Caesar’s
(formerly 2299 Powell St at Bay St., near Fisherman’s Wharf)
Over the years, Caesar’s was the destination for birthdays, weddings, anniversaries…Hell, ANY festive gathering. As teens, we would head to Caesar’s and settle in for a 7-course “pigout” (always trying, but never getting used to the pickled pig’s feet appetizer. No problem, because there were 6 other plates with antipasti, cold cuts, marinated ceci and kidney beans). So loud and raucous that you had to shout your order at the waiter. The best Cioppino in town. Excellent bar! A great, friendly, attentive staff, with owner Matteo actually cooking in the kitchen. And you were always greeted by the smiling face of the late, much-missed co-owner Luigi Romani. R.I.P.
Empress of China
(formerly 838 Grant Avenue, Chinatown)
The classiest destination in Chinatown, the Empress had one of the most spectacular views of The City from both the dining room and the bar. You didn’t go to Empress of China for authentic Regional cuisine. The menu was very “Americanized”. But it was a blast from the past, a step back into San Francisco, circa 1960. Check out the celeb photos on the wall. (“Hey, that’s Jack Soo from “Barney Miller”!) Order a perfect Mai Tai and imagine you’re in a scene from a Bond movie. Another classic bites the dust for more office space. Thanks, Progress…
A very old school North Beach feel in the heart of the busy Inner Sunset, the Villa Romana dining room was decorated with grapevines and Chianti bottles hanging from the barrel-like ceiling. IMHO, there was one reason to make the trip to this Irving Street staple: Pizza. If you missed Villa Romana, you missed one of the best pizzas in town. Period.
The legend of Sam Wo lives on in the memories of anyone who had the pleasure of climbing the rickety stairs to the second or third floor dining areas, sitting at the funky, beat up, hodge podge of communal tables. If you were lucky, you were verbally abused by the legendary Edsel Ford Fung. Kitchen on the first floor? No problem. Dumb waiter that bowl of noodles up to the appropriate floor. Open until 3 am, Sam Wo had a BYOB policy (despite the hand-written sign that stated “No Booze”) that let us bring in whatever beer we could buy at the liquor store down the block (that had, let’s say, a very liberal policy on checking I.D.) The food? Whatever. The experience? Priceless.
The granddaddy of all Italian sit-at-the-counter Italian grills, Vanessi’s was another multi-course dining experience (do you notice a trend in my favorites?) There was nothing like sitting at the counter across from the exhibition grill, and feeling the heat blaze up every time the chef flopped a steak or chop on the wood-fueled fire. Savory sensory overload! Vanessa’s had a great red sauce, slathered on spaghetti and ravioli, offered as your main course or a side. In the late’s 80’s, they moved from Broadway to Nob Hill, and closed soon after. Thankfully, Original Joe’s (North Beach and Downtown San Jose), Marin Joe’s, and a handful of others keep up the tradition.
Guess what? Another Italian Family-Style Dinner House. (Hey, I like Italian food, served in mass quantities. Sue me.) The things that stood out about Gold Spike were: 1. That uneven floor in the front dining area near the bar. 2. The dollar bills and business cards plastered all over the ceiling and walls. 3. The butteriest, garlicky garlic bread ever. Delicious! 4. HUGE portions. Pro-Eater Joey Chestnut would have difficulty not doggie bagging some of his meal. I went there for lunch with a group from work who complained that Gold Spike had “hair on it” (i.e. it was old).You think? It was over SEVENTY YEARS OLD at the time! They didn’t get it. You want pristine? I have the address of Olive Garden for you. As for me, (to paraphrase OG’s motto) a trip to Gold Spike was truly “when you’re there, you were family.”
Johnson’s Tamale Grotto
(formerly Vicente at 24th Avenue, Sunset District)
Tamales were a big deal in The City, WAY before the Tamale Lady and her garbage bag full of delicious masa treats made the bar scene in the Mission. I mean, “Tuesday was Red’s Tamale Day”, fercryinoutloud! The Hot House at Playland was the favorite of many Locals (including my wife’s family). But we were a Johnson’s Tamale Grotto family. They had the original 20th and Mission location and one in Westlake. But from the Sunset District location, we had Johnson’s deliver their deliciously sauced beans and rice (in the round ice-cream containers), enchiladas and cup tamales (made in coffee cups, if I remember correctly?), all wrapped in newspaper and tied with butcher string, to our front door. The sauce? Who knows what they put in it, but it was pure Mexican gravy magic.
The Shadows
(formerly 1349 Montgomery St. near the Filbert steps, Telegraph Hill)
The Shadows on Telegraph Hill was, to me, a “classy date night” destination. I couldn’t afford Ernie’s or Julius Castle (down the block), so when I did save a few bucks, I’d put on my Harris Tweed sports coat and a clip-on tie, and escort my girl (Lincoln High girl, Shirley) to The Shadows for some German-Swiss-Continental-American cuisine…and love. The dining room looked like my idea of what a Swiss chalet would look like (the closest I had ever been to Switzerland being the Matterhorn ride at Disneyland). The glorious panoramic view of the Bay from the bar was impressive. Their lentil soup (with refills!) was delicious. And I scored huge brownie points, even though the tie came off mid-meal.
Paoli’s
(575 Commercial St near Montgomery, Financial District)
Paoli’s has a spot near and dear to my heart for one specific reason- their Happy Hour buffet. I make the case that it was the most impressive array of freebie comestibles (with purchase of a cocktail of course) offered at any dining room bar anywhere, ever! It seemed like almost every item offered on the Dinner menu appeared on the massive buffet table near the bar (not true, but a great selection, nonetheless). Another great date night restaurant, dark and moody, Paoli’s offered up a delicious mixed bag of Continental-American-Broiler dishes. But you had to have one at the bar and wander over to see what was happening at Happy Hour first. You might not make it to dinner.
What are your favorite, long-gone restaurants? I’ll have my second list of 10 posted soon…
Great article. You should have also mentioned what businesses occupied the building after and currently.
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Bernsteins on Powell Street. Bow of a ship jutting out into the side walk. I used to pretend it was a Pirate ship when I was kid, but I think it was actually a replica of one of the Christopher Columbus ships
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AMonroe’s on Lombard… Grissons on Van Ness, and the Atla Mira in Sausalito.
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the hot house !
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Gaspare’s in the Richmond is *very* similar to Villa Romano, for someone who’s looking for that old-school cheesy italian restaurant vibe.
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anyone remember Bino’s on Noriega? It was a family favorite when I was growing up.
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Yes, Bino’s was a block from our home and the Bino family lived on 30th Ave across the street from us.
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Great little article! Thanks for putting this together. Brought back so many memories ! My mouth is watering!
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You forgot JULIUS CASTLE!!!!
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they closed?!
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Faugh — no great loss. Julius Castle had a great view and lousy food (like the Carnelian Room). Bring back Hoffman Grill!
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Oh, just open Doggie Diner already.
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And, as long as we’re up………… Hippo Hamburger on Van Ness and Clown Alley on Lombard (Theirs – Clown Alley, made insanely delicious, addictive burgers!!!!). Oh, and the original Mel’s.
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Fat Ed’s Geneva and mission
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Hey Charlie,
We used to hang out at Fat-Ed’s in the late 60s and early 70s.
When did you go there and what stories can you relate to the place?
Would like to share some of my stories. Good memories of Fat Ed’s!!!
Peace — Dave —
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Loved Fat Ed’s! I got to hang out there with a couple of SFPD Homicide Inspectors when I was taking Criminology courses at City College with them (they got me served beer, and cheated off me in class!)
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Fat Ed’s is my families business, my father and uncle owned it. I have lots of stories and still cook the same great food for my family.
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Patanes on Front Street-The best Scampi.
The Green Valley on Green and Grant- The best family style ever.
The Old Spaggetti Factory
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Dago Marys
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Yes! I loved that place.
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Have been to Capp’s (great to go to before BBB); Empress of China (my parents’ friends took me there when I was a young adult-we didn’t know much about Chinese food, but my friends asked the chef to create a dinner for us and it was incredible-I will never forget it!); Villa Romano (great neighborhood place), Vanessi’s (my boss’s wife used to take me there when I needed to get out of the office for a couple of hours!) All great memories of times gone by
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San Remo. How could you forget San Remo?!?
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Sam Wo is reopening next month, with the original owners and most of the same menu but in a new location on Clay street near Kearny. I’m sure it won’t be the same.
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Enrico’s on Broadway.
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Nothing will ever replace The Villa Romana. Ever!!!!
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Gaspare’s for jukebox nostalgia from the old Villa.
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Villa Romana was gold standard for pizza. I do remember Bino’s on Noriega although I was a small kid. I miss the Joe’s restaurants. West Portal and the Marina Joe’s respectfully. Most missed Mexican however is the El Sombrero on Geary Street. Handmade tortilla and the best tamales.
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El Sombrero…sorry it’s gone, but we still have Tia Margarita on Clement St.
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Was that at the corner of 43rd & Vicente? With the bandits painted on black velvet? Really good!
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I use to go to all of these restaurants
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How about Buca Giovanni, on Columbus across from the library and playground.
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How about L’Entrecote de Paris on Union?
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Also on Union, one block away…The Cooperage
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Ernie’s was a great place for fine dining. Watching Hitchcock’s Vertigo always brings back memories.
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Ernie’s was so expensive-even the silverware was ala carte!
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All great restaurants and I remember them fondly. Add to the list the Bull Pup (first in Playland then on Taraval briefly), Luigi’s on Columbus, Dante Benedetti’s New Pisa, Mardikian’s Omar Khayyam on O’Farrell, Veneto’s on Columbus (best fried cream in town!), The Tricolor, La Bourgogne, and Cyrano’s all within a block on Geary, the Montclair on Green Street, I’d better stop before I cry!! Glad to see there are other SFers who remember the great days, before dinner was a portrait in miniature and you never left hungry!!!
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LOVE your list, Mike. Several are already slated for inclusion a follow up post! Thanks for checking in!
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Their was Ole So Mio’s in North Beach for years and that moved to Millbrae pm Broadway!
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What about Orsi’s, the Hot House (original at the Beach), doggie Diner, Zims
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agree with the Italian family-style places, but there are some noticeable omissions….
New Pisa (best bar with Bill the Trivia King & Dante), & San Remo. The North Star (across from Capp’s) was the most fun.
Also missing….Washbag, Old Colony, Ernies, as well as Zims & Fosters. Iron Pot
Interesting to see the Shadows….I had forgotten that one
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Great list that brings back memories of many good times and what made San Francisco so special once apon a time. One was when I was maitre d’ at Top of The Mark in the 1980’s. Often called one of my faves, Vanessi’s on Broadway, for guests craving Italian. Well, when my brother and his bride were in SF for their honeymoon I took them for a day in Chinatown and North Beach. We eventually landed at Vanessi’s to see if we could get in without a dinner reservation but there was a 2 hour wait. Well, the maitre d’ recognized my voice, introduced himself, and five minutes later we were seated with a complementary bottle of Chandon waiting at the table. What made made this truly special was the how grateful my brother and his wife were for the surprise that they assumed I arranged in their honor. That’s old time San Francisco graciousness from Vanessi’s and, hey, I won’t tell if you won’t.
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Sorry…excuse the above clunky grammar and Vanessi’s was on Columbus, of course.
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NOt clunky at all, and you were right the first time, Mitch. Broadway at Kearny. Great spot, miss it. Please check out my blog on restaurants that should never have been closed. https://aahour.net/2015/07/20/10-san-francisco-restaurants-that-should-have-never-been-closed/ Vanessi’s definitely made the list. Thanks for the post!
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Pig and Whistle, The Palm Grill and Berstein’s were great joints when I was growing up in SF.
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Bernsteins is on a follow up list I’m doing in a couple of weeks. I totally forgot about The Palm on Bush St!
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Old Poodle Dog, Place Pigalle, Coffee Cantata, Pam Pam Room, Jovanelo’s, Rolf’s (really a loss), Senior Pico, Le Metro (Top of the Hill-DC), The Magic Pan.
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Great list. Old Poodle Dog and Jovanelo’s are on a follow up I’m writing in a couple of weeks.
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La Pantera, 1234 Gran,t Ave. Between Columbus Ave, and Vallejo St,Valton’s Fountain, SW corner of Stockton and Vallejo, the original U.S. Restaurant on Stockton between Green and Vallejo.
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Loved La Pantera (with the mural) and especially Original US Restaurant, especially their breakfast- eggs, Italian Sausage, home fires. Amazing!
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How can you forget Hippopotamus Hamburger on VanNess. My brother and I loved going there when we were kids. I miss places like this. I wish they would come back.
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Herb’s Deli on Taraval! The best Meatball sandos were served on Thursdays wrapped up in paper towels.
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The favorite sandwich spot for all the Sunset Boys! (and I liked it too, even though I’m from the Excelsior)
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Swiss steak ..where is a good place to have it at a restaurant and mashed pototaotes and gravy..the old joes of westlake had it but it’s not on the new menu at the new restaurant
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Does anyone remember Lisa’s in the tenderloin. REAL, authentic eastern European Jewish food. Lisa, Joe and Mrs. Green were always there to remember you and share a scotch with Joe. Miss it very much.
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The New Pisa when it was on Grant next to La Pantera, the Domino Club, Blue Fox……so many.
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Dante Benedetti’s place. Good old style Italian. Strolling accordionist. Excellent fried cream for dessert. Gigi’s (formerly of the Double Play) Sotto Mare has half of the space now. The best seafood in North Beach IMHO
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Atlantis Seafood Grotto, on West Portal Ave. Critic Jack Shelton gave it “5Stars and a Halleys Comet”.Where else could you get Fresh Shark?, I helped drag one in through the dining room full of patrons.( 8ft 10in), and delicious. Great Petrale Sole and Oysters Rockefeller too.R Cottone
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I mourn the loss of El Sombrero on Geary, Mom’s Cooking on Geneva, and Roosevelt’s Tamale Parlor. (Funny they’re all Mexican.) Not to mention Clown Alley.
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Mom is Cooking! Richard and his mom- good people! Service was pretty “deliberate” (ok, slow). But tasty food, for sure.
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La Barca on Lombard
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Chris- I always liked La Barca, but had some people argue about the quality. Whatever. IMHO always good Mexican food and good margaritas. Now its the Marina Bro Hangout from Hell- Stocks in Trade.
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The Caribbean Zone
Hoffman’s
Front Page
Ciao
Cypress Club
Zott’s
Cadillac Bar & Grill
La Bussola
Original Joe’s (on Taylor)
The Panther
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How about The Leopard Café?
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I loved Capps in the late 60’s I was stationed at Hunters point and found Capps one day they treated you like a king even an enlisted sailor I went many times, I’m sorry for the loss.
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The Grubstake on Pine at Polk during the late 70s, was a bit edgy, but for a couple of beat cops walking that part of town at 2 AM or after, the burgers and fries were heaven.
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The Grubstake ALMOST got torn down, but the contractor is building the new structure AROUND the old spot. Great late night joint!
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The Leaning Tower, North Beach, John’s Grill in the Tenderloin, early SF circa-1908 one of the city’s oldest. Green Street ??? Italian family style on Green street, not sure of the name, great food. The New Pisa with the USF baseball programs tacked above the bar, priceless.
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Joe- on Green St for Family Style Italian there was Capp’s Corner at Powell & Green, Green Valley was at 550 Green (which is still there, excellent delicious Sodini’s GV). Dante Benedetti’s New Pisa just down the block (across the alley from Gino & Carlo). And also, at some point in time, there was the Montclair at that 550 Green address.
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A friend forwarded this blog to me. It made my day and brought back so many memories! Don’t know who writes this but, allow me to return the favor. I collect cookbooks. There is a gold mine of a book titled “A Cook’s Tour of San Francisco” written by Doris Muscatine, published in 1963 (possibly republished in 1999 with same title), and available used on Amazon. Stories (and recipes no less) about all these places and MORE. Remember the Blue Fox, the Fly Trap, Place Pigalle, Koes Auberge, Jacks, Alfred’s, Bardelli’s, Lupo’s, Leopard Cafe etc., etc. etc. Thanks for the gastronomical trip down memory land in the City years and years ago!
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Thanks Ted! I actually have Doris’ book. LOVE it! Almost every restaurant in the book is long gone. Great memories!
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what about Tic Tocks
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Loved Tic Socks! The one at Ocean and Cayuga near Balboa HS was in my neighborhood. A bag of burgers (5) for a buck and change! And the Sea Burger- great fish sandwich!
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I just read the list of long, gone SF restaurants. Who are you? I also lived in the Excelsior and went to Bal. Darlene
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Paoli’s was a definite mood-setter for a special date. Another place I liked durinbfg the ’60s was trhe Coachman on Powell Street.
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Paoli’s was the best for a date! Plus the greatest happy hour buffet ever! If you bought a drink (or 2 or 3) you almost didn’t need to order dinner. It seemed like they had at least 10 items from the menu, free for the price of a cocktail!
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In the same price range…The Blue Fox, L’Orangerie, and La Bourgogne
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Can I add Gaylord’s at Ghiradelli Square? It had an air of elegance and wonderful food (at least for someone who was being introduced to Indian food. Went back a few times then I moved away from the Bay Area.
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went to Paolis after 49er games. Sat at the bar and chewed on prime rib bones, deep fried zucchini and other foods for the price of drinks. No need for dinner after that. Went home stuffed. Miss them all.
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Blue Boar, el sombreo, o solo mio & to the thousands more gone but not forgotten. The past city was THE place to grow up
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how about the house of prime rib….and the hof brau for corned beef on rye……
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Right on with O Sole Mio on Chestnut St. The Crespis [Burt and Rich] were the best.
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Is the Iron Horse still open? Never ate there but stopped by for drinks once in awhile.
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