We’re back on Broadway, in San Francisco’s North Beach, as former saloon keeper, and author of “Broadway North Beach- the Golden Years”, Dick Boyd introduces us to his nightclub, Pierre’s. He’ll share a few behind-the-scenes stories about changes in The City’s adult-entertainment area. We’ll meet his first waitress (and hooker’s right’s advocate, Margo St. James). And we’ll hear about a band of women who’s popularity had nothing to do with their musical talents.
On this episode, we visit what is, arguably, the oldest drinking establishment still in existence in San Francisco- The Saloon. Built in 1861, this is one of the few survivors of the ’06 Quake and Fire. In North Beach, there are lots of options when you want entertainment, but none can compare to the special cocktail of booze, Blues and true San Francisco characters like The Saloon offers.
The Saloon, 1232 Grant Ave, San Francisco, CA 94133
by the late, great Warren Hinckle (first published in the S.F. Chronicle on November 12, 1977)
NOTE: This article is hung on the wall of my favorite (and in my humble opinion, the best) drinking establishment in San Francisco, Gino & Carlo on Green St. Having had the honor of tending bar (morning shift, 6am, Tuesdays) for some of my favorite people in the World (the Rossi Family), I was saddened to find that this funny, touching, epic tale of boozy camaraderie is nowhere to be found on-line. So I transcribed and here it is, in all it’s glory. God bless Warren Hinckle, and Johnny Pignatelli.
They got to church early, like bandits casing the joint. The fuzzy rose of sin blushed in the veins of their cheeks. Outside, fall leaves blew over the early rising winos hanging in Washington Square Park. The priest began mass and nobody knew what to do. A babushkaed Italian lady who goes to church 365 days a year, turned around and showed them how to kneel.
It was the biggest gathering of degenerates under one roof since the days when the people who wrote the Bible sat down to describe Sodom and Gomorrah. It took place Tuesday morning in SS. Peter and Paul Church.
The extraordinary occasion was the High Requiem Mass, sung in Italian, for the late Giovanni Pignatelli, elder statesman and senior drinker of Green Street. If he were to be canonized, and there was talk of that in North Beach Tuesday morning, he would be the patron saint of alcoholics.
For the last 15 years Giovanni Pignatelli had drank a quart of scotch a day, sometimes a quart and a half, 2 quarts on holidays when there was something to celebrate. This is by the sworn estimate of the bartenders who served him the stuff. When he died, at 75 on Halloween night at Ft. Miley Veterans Hospital, he had just about everything wrong with him except for his liver, which was adjudged to be that of a 23-year-old. The doctors had sore necks from shaking their heads in puzzlement.
Once Johnny – as he was called- was hit by a Yellow Cab, an occasion of much pain and great fortune to him. There was a trial by jury to award Johnnie Pignatelli damages for his pain and suffering. The lawyer for the defense asked bartender Frank Rossi how much the victim drank.
“He has a few drinks in the morning,” Frank said.
In the morning? The lawyer wanted to know how many. “Oh, maybe seven or eight coffee brandys,” Frank said. The lawyer stepped back like Frank had handed him a wet glass to dry. Seven or eight? In the morning?
“He doesn’t drink much before lunch,” Frank said.
The jury looked at Johnny Pignatelli, who was sitting with a smile on his face looking as healthy and fresh as a clean scrub carrot. The jury almost applauded.
The people who knelt so awkwardly and unexpectedly at mass Tuesday morning to pray for the repose of his soul were his friends. Most of them had not been in church since they had been baptized, and some of them had never been baptized. They were fishermen, scavengers, longshoremen, lawyers, writers, insurance executives, bartenders and bartendresses, saloon people of every stripe and plume. His wife and his stepson did not show up at Giovanni Pignatelli’s funeral. The people buried him were the people who drank with him.
Johnnie did most of his drinking at Gino and Carlo, on Green Street. Gino and Carlo is a giant egg crate of a bar that resembles a bomb shelter after the bomb has dropped. Those who have reason to know say it is the hardest drinking saloon in San Francisco. People who take the waters there are not so much customers as citizens of a strange land. Johnny Pignatelli was Gino and Carlo’s senior citizen.
There are some people that did not like Johnny Pignatelli, among them, apparently, his immediate relations. His friends, however, loved him very much. Johnnie loved jest… He was irrascible. He was disputatious. He was flirtatious and unreasonable. He had a joyfully dirty mind. When introduced to young lady I would shake her breast before he shook her hand. When he danced he threw away his cane.
He loved to play and we hated to lose. Johnnie was shaking for drinks with his best friend, Donato Rossi. Johnnie lost. That was outraged that the dice would do that to him. He congratulated Donato with a clenched fist. “You were borna’ crooked, you gona’ die-ah crooked, you are so crooked you even sleep crooked!” No one could ever slander Johnny Pignatelli by calling him a good loser.
Bob Kauffman, the poet, a fellow citizen of Gino and Carlo, was asked over a Coke if he thought certain magnificent defects of Johnnie’s character should be corrected. “Why turn a perfectly good frog into a prince?” Kauffman replied.
When he was in a good mood, which was often, Johnny Pignatelli sang. He sang with the grace of a baby whale and the strut of a tuba player pumping away and a Sunday parade in Ohio. He would leap on the bar, a spry 70-year-old, and leave an imaginary band of drinkers in his favorite song. It is unfair to ask people to guess what that might be. It was “Off We Go, Into the Wild Blue Yonder…”
He also sang opera, excellently, which he learned, somehow, when making his living with a net, the way Peter did, working out of the Italian Riviera at Fisherman’s Wharf. He sang at the old Bocce Ball on Broadway, before the Bocce Ball went the way of all North Beach flesh, along the forked path to trendiness or oblivion.
It is no doubt no accident that Johnny Pignatelli, a real man of the old North Beach, left the stage the same month that Little Joe’s, the finest flood counter in America, succumbed to popularity and expanded into a ridiculous Baby Joe’s with tables, next-door, and City Lights continued its downhill plunge into merchandising that began when the management shafted Shig Murao by expanding, also, next-door into a magazine rack satellite. North Beach is becoming the Emporium with beards.
Johnny’s singing made his fortune. In the matter of Pignatelli vs. Yellow Cab, the victim took the stand. He was asked his name. He stood up, eyes as bright as an Everyready ad, his crew cut white hair flat top level and trim, and sang to the jury “My name is Giovanni Pignatelli. I love to be an American. I love to sing. I will sing to you Pagliacci.” That jury of his peers gave him a hundred grand. They were not out as long as it takes a racetrack tote board to add up. When the Scrooges at Yellow said they would appeal, Johnnie settled for a fast 75. He put it in the savings and loan a few doors down from Gino and Carlo and spent all the money buying drinks for his friends. It took him six years to use it up. When Johnny Pignatelli was rich, everybody was rich.
At Frank Rossi’s home on telegraph Hill, the former Kathleen Garafalo was serving dinner one night, Johnny Pignatelli was the guest. The two sets of Rossi twins were seen but not heard the way the nuns tell you to be in Catholic schools. When Mrs. Rossi, who is the former Miss Garafalo, cleaned up the table, Johnnie Pignatelli had left a 20 under each kid’s plates.
For the funeral mass there had been many frantic preparations. First the body had to be extracted from the cliff-hanging grasp of the Veterans Hospital bureaucracy. “What do you mean his friends want to bury him? We can’t just release a body to friends!” The bureaucrats of this government and of this city of ours make dying even more of the pain in the ass than it is.
Then there was a matter of the music. Bobby Short, a friend, suggested a trumpeter should play Johnny Pignatelli’s favorite song, which is not exactly in the handbook of Gregorian Chants. Mrs. Rossi dealt with the church. While kind, the church maintained a confusion bordering on suspicion about the arrangements. “Aren’t there relatives here? Yes. Are they coming? No.” Consanguinity is to Rome as baseball is to America; expected. Meanwhile, Shirley Bossier, a waitress, another of Johnny’s hundred friends, was desperately trying to land a trumpet player. The Musicians Union couldn’t guarantee anything on such notice. They suggested the band barracks at the Presidio. Shirley called the number and asked “Do you have a trumpet player who knows ‘Off We Go Into the Wild Blue Yonder’? and can he do it at 9:30 the next morning at SS. Peter and Paul?”
At 9 that morning, in the rectory of SS. Peter and Paul, Staff Sergeant Henry Buzby Jr. was there, tall, black, in full uniform, trumpet under his arm. He discussed the morning’s unusual musical score with Lola Simi, the organist. SS. Peter and Paul has not had a moment like this since a frustrated contractor who lost a bid hired goons to try to blow the church up back in the twenties or so. All was, finally, settled. The usual amenities were offered, and turned down. Sergeant Buzby said he had never seen a man’s friends doing what Johnny Pignatelli’s friends were doing for him: he would not play for pay.
The High Requiem Mass ended. The pallbearers began the long march down the aisle with the casket dripping with the morning’s holy water. Wearing the standard white gloves of the Green Street Mortuary, their faces as stone as Mt. Rushmore, were Donato and Frank Rossi, formerly of Genoa, then of Gino and Carlo, and their partner Aldino Cuneo, also of Genoa, and Dino Petrucci, like Johnnie from Marche, the day bartender at Columbus Café, where Johnny also drank, and Sylvio Conciatore, the dean of North Beach Italian chefs, who had cooked Johnnie a thousand noonday meals in Gino and Carlo’s back kitchen, and show me a bunch, but this Chuckie that people honk at, another citizen of Johnnie’ where Johnny also drank, and Jim Bunch, the disc jockey that people honk at, another citizen of Johnnie’s land.
As the casket moved down the aisle at the speed of an Alaskan snail the trumpet strain in largessimo time, of “Off We Go…” filled the huge church. Grown drunks cried in their sobriety and tears the size of martini onions rolled down the cheeks of Johnny Pignatelli’s friends. “That wasn’t a funeral – it was church insurance,” one mourner later said.
In Colma, at the Italian Cemetery, in the honest light of early winter, his friends said good-by to Johnny Pignatelli. “Are you only a friend, too?” Father Costanza of SS. Peter and Paul, who still had a weather eye out for a relative, asked Joe Barbirri, a retired scavenger.
In the end all Johnnie Pignatelli had were friends. We should all be so lucky.
Thrillist recently posted a list of “14 San Francisco Bartenders That You Need to Know.” That very subjective list (as all lists usually are) has bartenders from establishments that I either don’t know, or is “impossible to find” (a compliment, I guess), or that I won’t be visiting in the foreseeable future. That all said, their list inspired me to make a list of “9 San Francisco Bartenders You Need to Know (or Wish You Could Have Known)”. (and, yes, my list is very subjective as well…)
BAR: Ray’s Hearth, Inner Richmond
One of the funniest people on Earth and a fantastic bartender, Meredith is the reason to make a trip to 11th and Geary. And she’ll herd your elephants if needed.
BAR: Gino & Carlo, North Beach
Now retired, Frank and his brother Donato left a legacy for everyone to enjoy, Italian or otherwise. (Current partners Marco Rossi, Frank Rossi, Jr., Frank Colla, and Ron Minolli are no slouches, either!)
BAR: Where DIDN’T he work?
The most surly, funny, incredible, profane and perfect example of Irishman ever to pour a drink. He is missed.
BAR: The Bell Tower
The nicest bar owner ever. Ask her employees. And anyone that has had the pleasure of hanging with her at The Bell Tower. Simply one of the all-time best.
BAR: Tommy’s, Outer Richmond
“El Rey de Tequila”, Julio took over where his late father, Tomas, began. No one knows more about Tequila and making the perfect Margarita than Julio.
BAR: Gino & Carlo
The great Sil gets his own place on the list, simply because he is one of the good guys, and he makes the perfect Negroni.
BAR: Molloy’s Tavern, Colma
Sure, it’s not officially San Francisco, but it’s where every Native goes when visiting a dearly departed loved one. Pat will make that trip worth your while with an excellent Irish Coffee and a bit of the blarney.
BAR: Tony Nik’s, North Beach
Amazing energy and personality, and poured a stiff cocktail, made to perfection. Tony Nik’s hasn’t been the same since she left. Period.
BAR: The Gold Dust Lounge on Powell, Union Square
This urbane gentleman held down the opening shift at the original GDL location. Made great conversation and a superb Bloody Mary. Gone, but not forgotten.
BAR: Mr. Bing’s, Chinatown
The coolest bartender in Chinatown, or any other town, for that matter. Master of Golden Tee. Besides the wall painting of the tennis playing gal baring her ass, he was the reason to stop at Bing’s.
BAR: Fahey’s, Sunset District
For 40 years, Snooky held court at his bar on Taraval. Fahey’s was conveniently open (like most good San Francisco bars back in the day) at 6am, always served free hot dogs. Nicest man ever.
BAR: Perry’s, Cow Hollow
Perry Butler has hired some to the greatest bartenders of all time to work his saloon on Union Street. One of the best was Mike English, mainly for 2 reasons: his cocktail skills and his storytelling. I was lucky enough to be there as he shared, from behind his pink-framed reading glasses, some of the funniest, booziest tales ever heard.
BAR: Balboa Cafe, Cow Hollow
Walk in the door and there he was in his white coat and that big smile. He was the self proclaimed “world’s nicest human”. He’s got competition for that title right here on this page, but Marty wasn’t far off base.
BAR: Cookie’s Star Cafe, Portsmouth Square
Digging into the depths of my dark mind, but I had the privilege of being served by this legend back when I was a 17-year old Lumper hauling restaurant supplies into the sidewalk delivery chutes of Chinatown. The old Hall of Justice was already gone, but Cookie was still running things from behind Kearny St. bar. Did I say “legend”?
Honorable Mentions: Casey at Sodini’s Green Valley, Rick at the Tee Off and Pittsburgh’s Pub, Leila at Italian-American Social Club, Mike Roddy at LaRocca’s Corner, the late great JimBob Morey at the Question Mark (Dr’s), the late Ronnie Cotter at Cotter’s Corner, Michael McCourt at Washington Square Bar & Grill