The Mystery of 1024 Kearny- Plaka Taverna

Google Maps

As little as I post on this blog site, it’s always a treat to receive a comment from a new reader who has a fond memory of their favorite San Francisco bar from back in the day.

I recently got a comment from Scott asking for any more info on Plaka Taverna (which I included in my 12 Favorite Bars That Are Long Gone post). He wrote:

“Does anyone have more info on Plaka Taverna – was it definitely definitely at 1024 Kearny? I was the talent buyer for Cocodrie (music venue; 1024 Kearny) 10/96 – 7/00 when it closed (landlords forced us out). I know some of the history of the building, but this article is the first time I’ve heard of Plaka Taverna. 1024 Kearny: vacant for around ten years 2000 – 2010; Cocodrie 1994 – 2000; Morty’s 1986 – 1994; Korean Village restaurant ’70s – maybe 1986; North Beach Revival (aka The Revival) 1971 – maybe 1975; Off Broadway (Carol Doda etc.) 1964 – 1971; Off Broadway (music) maybe early ’60s or by 1963 – 1964. And The Backyard (restaurant) was there by or during the ’40s until I think the late ’50s if not up until the Off Broadway.”

Scott’s post had me heading to the online Polk’s street directory that lists every business by address (an outstanding resource- thanks SF Public Library!) to get some proof. And searching the volumes by the years I remembered going there (1973? 1974? 1975?) I found….absolutely NOTHING! WTF?!

Plaka Taverna wasn’t just a figment of my teenage imagination. I was there, in person, with my future wife, Shirley, and her Greek-American girlfriend, Paulette Derdevanis (who’s dad was either part owner or managed the place). I didn’t just imagine drinking licorice-flavored ouzo that turned milky white as soon as it hit the ice in the low ball glass (yes, we were underage, but it was The City in the 70’s). I didn’t hallucinate that I was clumsily stomping out on the dance floor trying my best to follow the Greeks as they danced traditional dances in a wide circle to infectious bouzouki music.

As I told Scott in my follow up response to his post “Time for a deeper dive!’ And here’s what I found:

From the San Francisco Chronicle legendary columnist Herb Caen’s column on November 15, 1972:

So from December of 1972, the North Beach Revival (formerly Off-Broadway) became Plaka Taverna.

Since were in deep dive mode, here a photo of owner Voss Boreta with the San Francisco icon Carol Doda.

For the big grand opening, Voss (one of the biggest proponents of San Francisco’s Broadway Nightlife scene) decided to send invites to celebrities around the globe- including one to an ex-First Lady, and wife of one of the wealthiest men in the world- Greek shipping tycoon, Aristotle Onassis. Herb Caen snarkily covered the response:

One Greek V.I.P. did accept the invite for the Plaka’s grand opening festivities, but not without incident…

Plaka Taverna became one of North Beach’s premiere party venues:

In August of 1973, Voss decided to change careers. He and his wife, former Broadway strip club queen Yvonne D’Angers, opened a driving range on the Peninsula, then moved to Las Vegas. where they opened a massively successful golf business, Las Vegas Golf and Tennis.

Yvonne D’Angers Boreta

Voss sold the Plaka to Art Thanash, another San Francisco Native, former Merchant Marine and (according to his obit at Duggan’s) “icon in the North Beach nightclub scene (who) helped pioneer the topless revolution.” He was one of the original co-ownerw of the famous (some would say infamous) Condor Nightclub. But the Plaka was going to be “family friendly”.

Art Thanash, the consumate publicist, kept Plaka in the papers with stories placed with local columnists like Jack Rosenbaum and Herb Caen.

John “Papou” Stewart (Studianis)- the ‘man who dances with a table held only by his teeth”

The streets of San Francisco and the Bay Area were a bit tense (understatement?) during the late 60’s and the 1970’s, with the Zodiac Killer on the loose in the East Bay, Jim Jones’ Peoples Temple scandals in the Fillmore- before the horrors of Jonestown. And the racially-motivated random murders of 14-15 people that came to be known as the Zebra murders had citizens in a constant state of fear. This article discusses it’s effect on Broadway nightlife.

Herb Caen took other shot at North Beach and Broadway. I get the suspicion that Mr. “Don’t Call It Frisco” wasn’t a fan of the Broadway Topless scene and it’s players, or maybe they didn’t kiss his ass enough. (Quick aside: SFPD legend Charlie Barca was my boss when he was Chief of Inspectors and I was a humble Police Cadet at the Hall of Justice in 1974. Tough SOB.)

Who remembers the worldwide energy crisis in 1974? I do, I do! Long lines at gas stations extending around the block. That damned OPEC oil embargo. Rationing. High fuel prices (well, relatively high. It’s all relative, isn’t it?). But Broadway (including Plaka Taverna) wanted to help you get through the madness. A 26 dollar value for only 14.95?! Count me in!

So we come to the end of the Plaka Taverna era. Everything goes sale set for the end of December, 1976. Basically 1973 through 1976.

And that was that, Scott. But, for three glorious ouzo swilling, dolmades munching, underaged drinking, rabble-rousing, belly dancing, plate breaking, bouzouki-indouced Greek whirling, “Opa!” shouting years, we DID have a Taverna named Plaka at 1024 Kearny off Broadway in North Beach.

The Saloon

On this episode, we visit what is, arguably, the oldest drinking establishment still in existence in San Francisco- The Saloon. Built in 1861, this is one of the few survivors of the ’06 Quake and Fire. In North Beach, there are lots of options when you want entertainment, but none can compare to the special cocktail of booze, Blues and true San Francisco characters like The Saloon offers.  

The Saloon, 1232 Grant Ave, San Francisco, CA 94133

Hours: 12p-1:30a 415 989-7666

Vesuvio Cafe

San Francisco has been home to some of the greatest saloons in the world. Most are but a memory, but a few classics remain. Arguably, the most beautiful survivor would be Vesuvio Cafe on Columbus between North Beach and Chinatown.  Owner Janet Clyde was gracious enough to give us an inside look at this iconic establishment.

 

Vesuvio Cafe, 255 Columbus Ave. (near Broadway), San Francisco, CA 94133

Hours:  8am to 2 am   (415) 362-3370

9 (check that) 14 San Francisco Bartenders You Need to Know (or Wish You Had Known)

Thrillist recently posted a list of “14 San Francisco Bartenders That You Need to Know.” That very subjective list (as all lists usually are) has bartenders from establishments that I either don’t know, or is “impossible to find” (a compliment, I guess), or that I won’t be visiting in the foreseeable future.  That all said, their list inspired me to make a list of “9 San Francisco Bartenders You Need to Know (or Wish You Could Have Known)”. (and, yes, my list is very subjective as well…)

Meredith Godfrey
BAR: Ray’s Hearth, Inner Richmond
One of the funniest people on Earth and a fantastic bartender, Meredith is the reason to make a trip to 11th and Geary. And she’ll herd your elephants if needed.
Mere
Frank Rossi
BAR: Gino & Carlo, North Beach
Now retired, Frank and his brother Donato left a legacy for everyone to enjoy, Italian or otherwise.  (Current partners Marco Rossi, Frank Rossi, Jr., Frank Colla, and Ron Minolli are no slouches, either!)
Frank_Rossi
Seamus Coyle
BAR: Where DIDN’T he work?
The most surly, funny, incredible, profane and perfect example of Irishman ever to pour a drink. He is missed.
seamus coyle
Barbie Tice
BAR: The Bell Tower
The nicest bar owner ever. Ask her employees. And anyone that has had the pleasure of hanging with her at The Bell Tower.  Simply one of the all-time best.
Barbie Tice
Julio Bermejo
BAR: Tommy’s, Outer Richmond
“El Rey de Tequila”, Julio took over where his late father, Tomas, began. No one knows more about Tequila and making the perfect Margarita than Julio.
Julio Bermejo_Fotor
Silvio Maniscalco
BAR: Gino & Carlo
The great Sil gets his own place on the list, simply because he is one of the good guys, and he makes the perfect Negroni.
Silvio Maniscalco
Pat Lane
BAR: Molloy’s Tavern, Colma
Sure, it’s not officially San Francisco, but it’s where every Native goes when visiting a dearly departed loved one. Pat will make that trip worth your while with an excellent Irish Coffee and a bit of the blarney.

Victoria d’Amato
BAR: Tony Nik’s, North Beach
Amazing energy and personality, and poured a stiff cocktail, made to perfection. Tony Nik’s hasn’t been the same since she left. Period.

Chuck Klein
BAR: The Gold Dust Lounge on Powell, Union Square
This urbane gentleman held down the opening shift at the original GDL location. Made great conversation and a superb Bloody Mary. Gone, but not forgotten.

Michael Chan
BAR: Mr. Bing’s, Chinatown
The coolest bartender in Chinatown, or any other town, for that matter. Master of Golden Tee. Besides the wall painting of the tennis playing gal baring her ass, he was the reason to stop at Bing’s.

Snooky Fahey
BAR: Fahey’s, Sunset District
For 40 years, Snooky held court at his bar on Taraval.  Fahey’s was conveniently open (like most good San Francisco bars back in the day) at 6am, always served free hot dogs. Nicest man ever.
Snooky Fahey
Mike English
BAR: Perry’s, Cow Hollow
Perry Butler has hired some to the greatest bartenders of all time to work his saloon on Union Street. One of the best was Mike English, mainly for 2 reasons: his cocktail skills and his storytelling. I was lucky enough to be there as he shared, from behind his pink-framed reading glasses, some of the funniest, booziest tales ever heard.
perrys
Marty Lindstrom
BAR: Balboa Cafe, Cow Hollow
Walk in the door and there he was in his white coat and that big smile. He was the self proclaimed “world’s nicest human”. He’s got competition for that title right here on this page, but Marty wasn’t far off base.
marty 2_Fotor
Cookie Picetti
BAR: Cookie’s Star Cafe, Portsmouth Square
Digging into the depths of my dark mind, but I had the privilege of being served by this legend back when I was a 17-year old Lumper hauling restaurant supplies into the sidewalk delivery chutes of Chinatown. The old Hall of Justice was already gone, but Cookie was still running things from behind Kearny St. bar.  Did I say “legend”?
Cookie Picetti_Fotor
Honorable Mentions: Casey at Sodini’s Green Valley, Rick at the Tee Off and Pittsburgh’s Pub, Leila at Italian-American Social Club, Mike Roddy at LaRocca’s Corner, the late great JimBob Morey at the Question Mark (Dr’s), the late Ronnie Cotter at Cotter’s Corner, Michael McCourt at Washington Square Bar & Grill